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Rock Climbing in the Isle of Man
Aldrick

 

From the car park at Calf Sound cafe, follow the footpath which runs along he West coast for about half a mile to a viewpoint on the headland. The path then continues above a gully containing several good crack and wall problems and beneath an obvious slabby pinnacle.

SLAB AND PINNACLE ~ 30' ~ Diff
Climb the cracked face of the pinnacle above the path.

ELBOW JOINT ~ 60' ~ VS 4c
The first major buttress lies a few yards left past Slab and Pinnacle, and lies below the path. Climb the steep off width crack which is undercut to start, and then finish up the corner behind.

SWEET REVENGE ~ 50' ~ E1 5b
The thin line straight up the centre of the face which has Elbow Joint on its left hand side. Finish up the corner at the back of the overhanging nose.

BILLY THE FISH LIVES ~ 75' ~ E2 5b
Starts 15' left of Elbow Joint. Climb through the undercut start and pull on to the slab face, then up to the large ledge and traverse right to finish. With some gardening a direct finish will be possible.

DECEPTION ~ 90' ~ HVS 5a
The next buttress along contains an easy looking groove near its left edge. Climb the groove, moving right at the top, then over the bulging wall to the final slab and wall. Much harder than it looks and hard to protect.

PUCKOON ~ 70' ~ VS 4c
Start to the left and a little higher, at a chimney formed by a large boulder. Climb the wall immediately right of the chimney, then move left and surmount the final overhang direct.

Further left is a short buttress with a very undercut groove, which provides a good problem. Then comes the final wall of the crag, providing more serious climbing with very poor rock.

THREE TIMES A LADY ~ 70' ~ VS 4b
The obvious wide chimney.

VENEER ~ 40' ~ HVS 5a
Left of the chimney is a thin crackline which widens towards the top. Climb this direct.

Immediately North of the usual climbing area is a huge vertical wall bounded by a curving left arete and a steep grassy gully to the right. The wall is vegateted in places.

THE LEFT HAND OF DARKNESS ~ 120' ~ HVS
Start at the foot of the steep grassy gully and pull onto the wall on the left taking care with loose rock. Climb up and left over the grass caterpillar to reach a very narrow grassy ledge. Follow this then climb up into a niche over loose earthy rock. Climb the steep crack out of the niche onto a large partly detached flake, traverse left at the top of the flake and climb up steeply to a rising traverse line with an awkward mantleshelf finish (crux).

BATTLE OF THE BULGE ~ 25' ~ Hard Sev
Towards the top of the grass gully , just before a corner, is a short wall / slab with an overlap at half height (crux), leading to the top of the ramp rising from the corner on the right. Take a direct line up the wall to reach the top of the ramp.

Back at the bottom of the grass gully, above and to the right can be seen an overhanging off-width corner crack, high up on the hillside. Best approached from the top by abseil, though an ascent of the gully is possible.

WOUNDED KNEE ~ 25' ~ Hard Sev
Climb the wide crack with a struggle past the overhang where it widens slightly to become a narrow chimney.

From the foot of The Left Hand of Darkness descent to just above the high water mark and traverse around the arete and cross bouldery ledges to the foot of the sea cliffs proper. Step onto ledges on the wall and scramble 20' left to a belay.

THERE AND BACK AGAIN ~ 720' (360' x 2) ~ VS

  1. 40' 4b Semi hand traverse the obvious break down to a ledge just above the barnacle line.
  2. 100 4c Climb around the arete to a diagonal gangway crack leading up left. Climb this and step left onto an obvious pale grey ledge at the top. Reverse the easy slab down to a belay just above the barnacle line.
  3. 120' 4b Cross the easier angled black wall into the large corner, traverse easily right and down and cross a steep little wall onto a large platform.
  4. 100' 4c From the foot of the huge dangerous looking corner at the left end of the platform step down and traverse the left wall of the corner at the barnacle line onto ledges on the front face. Cross these easily and then climb awkwardly up and across into the back of a hidden zawn. No further progress is possible at high tide so a reverse is forced. In reverse pitch 2 can be climbed just above the barnacle line variation.


All text © Manx Fell & Rock Club and Mike Caine