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Rock Climbing in the Isle of Man
Black Head

 

This headland lies between the Chasms and Spanish Head, and is best reached from the path to Spanish Head. The main climbs lie on the South facing walls, and are probably best reached on a first visit by abseiling down to large ledges at the foot of the crags. It is possible to climb down from a point about 30 yards West of the tip of the headland and this descent forms an easy way back to the top of the crag. The best abseil point is at the top of this descent route at a very large natural thread.

SHARK AND CHIPS 100' VS 4c
1/40' From the wide ledges at the East end of the main face, traverse 40' into a corner below overhangs, and step down right into a smaller corner. 2/60' Climb the corner to a niche, then step delicately left into the main corner and finish up the strenuous chimney. Belay close to the top of the descent route.

CONQUISTADOR ~ 80' ~ HVS 5a
Start at the East end of the crags, at the highest point of the ledges and gain the hanging chimney groove from a large pocket on the wall on the right, then finish easily up this.

VAQUERO ~ 120' ~ E1 5b
The left of the two hanging grooves. Climb steeply up to a quartz ledge below the groove, then directly up the bulging wall to the foot of the groove, which is then followed more easily to the top.

EL'BOW ~ 180' ~ VS 4b 4c
Towards the West end of the crags at the foot of the ledges is a long chimney crack line. This route climbs the ribs and walls of the right arete of the chimney, starting at the lowest point of the rib. 1/90' Climb up to the obvious big ledge, then left onto an undercut block and up to belays. 2/90' Climb up and right along the ledges, finishing steeply up the wall.

THE ARCH ~ 100' ~ V Diff (T)
At the extreme West end of the crag is a flying buttress. Climb this direct. Reverse the route or abseil to finish.

G'ROTTE ~ 220' ~ Sev (T)
1/90' Starting at the base of the flying buttress climb up and right to a spike on the arete, step onto the face and continue up to large ledges. Best to abseil off from here of reverse the route. 2/130' A dangerous pitch. Climb up to the overhang, then left and up again on unstable and unsound rock. Traverse off right. No worthwhile protection.


All text © Manx Fell & Rock Club and Mike Caine