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Rock Climbing in the Isle of Man
Bulgham Bay

 

From the car park at the head of Dhoon Glen follow the minor road across the tramlines for about 200 yards, and then turn right over a stone stile onto a grassy footpath. Follow this path through the trees and onto open hillside (good views of Dhoon Bay routes), then downhill to a sharp hairpin bend overlooking a desperate scramble to the shore. A few yards past the hairpin turn right and go down the steep hillside along an overgrown wall to an obvious rocky point. This point lies between North and Middle coves, with access to middle cove and at suitably low tide to South cove as well. North cove is reached from the other side.

BULGHAM NORTH COVE

This offers a pleasant slab and crack at about Moderate, but nothing else.

BULGHAM MIDDLE COVE

From the rock point mentioned above drop down a short wall to ledges just above sea level.

CARMEN DRAGON ~ 100' ~ V Diff
Climb up and right using any of a variety of lines to reach the base of a small ramp, then follow this diagonally to the top.

BULGHAM ARETE ~ 100' ~ Not Led ~ 5c
The superb arete on the left has been top roped to remove loose rock, but still awaits a lead.

FLAKE CRACK ~ 100' ~ VS ~ 4c
The flake crack a few feet left of the arete. Climb directly up to join the crack, then follow this moving left then back right near the top. Finish up the easy section of the arete.

ARCTIC CATERPILLAR ~ 120' ~ VS ~ 4b
A good route, starting just left of flake crack and taking a line up the shallow gangway which slopes up to the left. Avoid the blank section in the middle by traversing left to reach a thin crack, which is then followed for 10 feet to rejoin the gangway. At the top of the gangway move right and up, then finish rather insecurely over gorse bushes. No belay, stand behind the low overgrown wall.

BULGHAM SOUTH COVE

When the tide is low the South Cove can be reached from the Middle Cove, or else a very steep scramble can be made from the hairpin bend on the approach track. The main wall which separates the two coves contains a small cave just above sea level, and this is where the first route starts.

SEA PINK GROOVE ~ 50' ~ V Diff
From the level of the cave climb up and left to a ridge which abuts the gable end of the crag. follow the obvious line of the strata up and right.

The arete on which Sea Pink Groove finishes gives the line of the next climb, in a similar but far easier situation to the prominent arete of Middle Cove.

BLUEBOTTLE ARETE DIRECT ~ 210' ~ Hard V Diff
From sea level climb more of less directly up the arete. The hardest section is in the top half.

BLUEBOTTLE ~ 180' ~ Hard V Diff
From the centre of the buttress at sea level climb straight up to a rock pool, then traverse right on enormous ledges to join Bluebottle Direct at the arete.

GOAT LEG BELAY ~ 240' ~ V Diff
Follow the rather indefinite line to the top, which starts 20 feet left of Bluebottle.

ORIGINAL ROUTE ~ 260' ~ V Diff
From the left end of the buttress climb up a slab almost on the edge of the buttress for about 130 feet, until the rock peters out. From here walk left to the foot of a large smooth slab (not visible from the belay), and finish up the easiest line of the slab.

The very steep scramble referred to in the access description for South Cove crosses between the two climbing sections of this route.


All text © Manx Fell & Rock Club and Mike Caine