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Rock Climbing in the Isle of Man
Dhoon Bay

 

The climbs here are easily reached from the beach at the foot of Dhoon Glen. Cars will have to be parked at the top, in the car park on the main road.

SLAB OF DHOON

This is an isolated block which stands aloof on the pebbly beach. The descents are by reversing the routes, or by abseil.

CRACK OF DHOON ~ 90' ~ V Diff ~ (T)
Climb the crack and shallow corner a few feet left of the centre of the slab.

HIGH DHOON ~ 90' ~ V Diff ~ (T)
From the right arete of the slab climb a flake, then move left and up a crack, finishing over a quartz bulge. A direct start up the thin slab is possible to join the crack at half height (Sev).

To the right of Dhoon Slab a very narrow slab rises from the extreme right of the beach.

GILLETTE GII ~ 80' ~ VS 4c ~ (T)
Climb the right edge of the steep slab. Poor protection, abseil descent.

About 100 yards right a steep, slim buttress rises from the sea, and this can be reached at low tide to give the following route.

BUTTRESS SLAB DIRECT ~ 200' ~ Sev ~ (T)
Start from a large ledge and climb a crack past a flake roof at 50', step left at the route then trend right and up to a small stance. Finish directly above. Some minor variations on this have also been recorded.

On the hillside above the seacliffs is a very obvious large area of easy angled slab, out of sight of the beach, but easily seen from the Bulgham Bay path. The slab is in two parts, with the upper large section giving -

GARDEN SLAB ~ 200' ~ Sev
From the foot of the slab climb diagonally right to a large earthy ledge (piton belay in right wall of shallow corner). From the belay trend right and up to the top. Protection and belays are scarce. The angle of the slab is such as to provide just enough friction when dry, consequently many variations and problems could be devised.

Lower down to the left is another area of slabby ribs containing several large blocks.

HIGHTOP ~ 95' ~ V Diff
Start at the left edge of the slab and climb up to a large flake edge. Surmount this and follow the edge to a grassy patch (belay). Then finish by climbing the steeper slab at its highest point.



All text © Manx Fell & Rock Club and Mike Caine