Main Sections
Twitter
Blog Categories

Rock Climbing in the Isle of Man
Fenella Beach

 

The cliffs above Fenella Beach at Peel are short, but very sound, and they provide excellent climbing in pleasant surroundings. The main wall can only be reached at low tide or by abseil onto the large boulders below the wall. From Fenella beach car park traverse at low tide South round the crags. The first buttress contains some easy scrambling before leading to a cave. The section of easy angled rock between the car park and the left arete of the cave is an excellent area for novices or kids.

FENELLA TRAVERSE ~ 25' ~ Diff
A short semi hand traverse at the beginning of the cliff. Pull up onto an arete to finish.

FENELLA ORIGINAL ~ 25' ~ Diff
The obvious easy angled crack.

FENELLA WALL ~ 25' ~ Hard V Diff
Just right of the crack, Finishing with an awkward corner mantleshelf.

CORNER TRAVERSE ~ 30' ~ Diff
From the foot of Fenella Wall climb around the rib on the right and up to a gully which provides a finish.

OUT OF THE GLOOM ~ 40' ~ Diff
Climb out of the back of the cave through the obvious hole. The best way to reach the cave is by a traverse starting as for the above route but continuing just above the high water mark. Hard V Diff using this variation.

LOBSTERPOT WALL

This is the wall to the right of the cave.

CRAB CRAWL ~ 60' ~ Hard Sev 4b ~ (T)
From a belay in the cave traverse delicately across the bottom wall and through the overhang onto the main wall. Traverse easily right until a delicate step enables the rib to be reached and climbed to the top.

THE CLAW ~ 40' ~ HVS 5a ~ (T)
Climb the series of corners just above the overhang of Crab Crawl.

BLACK VELVET ~ 50' ~ E1 5b
Start as for Crab Crawl. From the cave traverse right up the cracked overhang into the corner of The Claw. Step left above the cave and straight up the centre of the black wall to a mantle shelf finish.

SEAL WALL ~ 30' ~ Sev ~ (T)
Reaches the delicate step on Crab Crawl directly from below up the black wall.

THE BELLMAN ~ 40' ~ HVS 5a ~ (TL)
Starts at the right end of Lobsterpot Wall, just left of the arete. Climb the wall to below the overhangs, then step left and climb steeply to a hanging groove. Climb this and the wall above to finish up Crab Crawl.

CARRICK ARETE ~ 40' ~ Hard Sev 4a ~ (TL)
Start as for The Bellman and step right onto the arete at an obvious ledge, then finish up the arete and the wall on the right

Past Carrick Arete there is another wall, rather shorter, extending from an obvious corner crack to a short boulder problem at the right hand end. The next route lies between Carrick Arete and the corner.

CARRICK GROOVE ~ 40' ~ VS 4c ~ (T)
Gain the slabby black groove line which lies midway between Carrick Arete and the corner, and climb it using the left wall, over a bulge to an easier finish.

CORNER CRACK ~ 30' ~ VS 4c ~ (T)
The corner is awkward. Step left and up under the roof, then finish on the left wall of the corner.

THE WHITE RABBIT ~ 35' ~ E1 5c ~ (TL)
The blunt arete on the right, starting under the bottom overhang below high tide level and climbing steeply up to an obvious spike, then up to finish a little left of The Walrus. There is no protection of the first hard section and the landing is very bad.

THE WALRUS ~ 30' ~ VS 4c
Start in the middle of the wall and climb a crack to a point on the right of a large bulge. Step left and climb the bulging wall direct to an easier finish.

THE CARPENTER ~ 25' ~ VS 4c
Climb the crackline on the right to the steeper upper part, then step right and over the bulge at the top.

Just around the corner and across a narrow gully from The Carpenter is another short cliff with a few problems. It is best reached from above, but can be reached from The Carpenter at low tide. From above descent a steep little wall to large ledges just South of a narrow gully, from there descend easily to sea level.

FIT THE FIRST ~ 30' ~ Hard Sev
Climb the arete of the gully using a crack in the gully. Finish direct.

TWEEDLEDUM AND TWEEDLEDEE ~ 25' ~ Diff / Sev
The two curving grooves leading up to the large ledges. The right is easy, the left harder. Start at sea level.

THE BEAVERS LESSON ~ 25' ~ HVS 5b
Around the corner to the South is a small steep face with a cave. Above and left of the cave is an overhang containing a thin crack Reach this from a steep undercut groove, hard to enter both groove and crack.

MAD HATTER ~ 30' ~ E1 5b
To the right of Beavers Lesson. Climb the crack on the left of the cave. Pull over the roof and follow the thin crack on the short steep wall.

SNARK BAIT ~ 35' ~ VS 4c
Starts a few feet right of the cave on the right of Beavers Lesson. Climb the crack and the groove above.

THE HUNTING OF THE SNARK ~ 50' ~ E1 5b
Right of Snark Bait the strata changes to a steeply inclined wall leaning right to left. The climb follows a crackline in the left edge of the wall to a loose finish. Very much harder than it looks.

Walk along the lorry track above Fenella car park and a hundred before the shell chute descend the grass bank to the top of a large wall, climb down the South arete to the bottom of the wall.

SHELL SHOCK ~ 60' ~ VS
Starting well above sea level at a broken vertical crack up the centre of the wall, climb up the centre of the wall and over several overhangs. Belay a long way up the bank.

Instead of following the South arete descent the North arete to the cliff top then trend North a few yards and carefully climb down to large slabs above high tide level and then to a man made quarry that has some impressive roofs. the quarry is divided into sections by the descent route. The Southern section is divided by a groove.

SPIDER MORGAN ~ 50' ~ HVS 5a
Climb the groove then bridge right and around the top overhang. Very good rock and protection.

There are some low sandstone cliffs at the North end of Peel promenade offers varied climbing on good red sandstone.

POOL SIDE ~ 45' ~ HVS
Just inside the end gate to the swimming pool and behind the transformer box is an obvious line up over a hanging V-block.

CASTLE VIEW ~ 35' ~ Sev
On the wall at the end of the wall by the swimming pool, climb the sloping ledge.

Following the cliff top path North an old swimming pool can be seen at sea level. One hundred yards further North is an easy angled sandstone slab which can be reached either from the path or by walking around from the old swimming pool at low tide.

ORANGE PEEL ~ 80' ~ V Diff
Climb the slab directly, tending towards the gap in the grass rake running across the slab at three quarters height.


All text © Manx Fell & Rock Club and Mike Caine