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Rock Climbing in the Isle of Man
Kione y Ghoggan

 

The crags stretch from the rocky point on the West side of Penlite Bay to almost as far as the Anvil, a large isolated stack in the bay just East of the Sugarloaf. The best access is to walk from the end of the Glen Chass road, although it is quite possible to approach from the Chasms.

From the limited parking space at the end of the single track Glen Chass road walk through the gate and along the good track before turning left to reach a large grassy area above the rocky point of Perwick Bay. Scramble down to sea level just on the North East side of the point, and then traverse easily around onto the main South facing crags.

The first routes lie a few yards to the East of the descent route, an isolated square buttress with a chimney / crack up the middle

ABSENT FRIEND ~ 40' ~ VS 4b
Five feet left of the central chimney / crack, climb direct over large overhangs.

DERBY VIEW ~ 40' ~ Sev
The chimney / crack line facing out to sea, climb direct.

DESPERATE DERBY ~ 40' ~ HS
Five feet right of Derby View, climb direct.

WINDY CORNER ~ 45' ~ V Diff
Opposite Derby View and in front the stratified wall. Climb the small corner arete. At the large overhang traverse left for a few feet and then straight up.

PRIMATE AREA

About 50 yards along the traverse a wide flat shelf above high tide level is reached. A two tier wall rises from this shelf, the lower tier overhangs and is split by three square chimneys. Routes are described as they are reached from right to left.

PRIMATE ~ 80' ~ Sev
The right chimney.

LUCKY FOR SOME ~ 50' ~ HVS 5a
Six feet left of Primate step of the blocks into the brown scoop then direct to the top.

GORILLA ~ 80' ~ VS 4b
The wall between Primate and the central chimney.

DEAD CRABS DON'T TELL TALES ~ 80' ~ VS 4c
Six feet left of Gorilla. Climb the overhang and directly up via the thin small corner crack.

GIBBON ~ 80' ~ Sev
The central chimney

TALES OF THE RIVERBANK ~ 50' ~ HVS 5a
Takes the right arete of Gibbon

SEAGULLS DON'T LIKE CLIMBERS ~ 80' ~ HVS 5a
Six feet left of Gibbon. Climb direct and finish up small corner.

GRITSTONE TWIT ~ 80' ~ HVS 4c
The steeply overhanging wall between the centre and left chimneys is taken direct at its centre.

NEXT BEST THING TO GRITSTONE ~ 80' ~ HVS 5a Half way between Gritstone and Orangutan. Climb direct to top.

ORANGUTAN ~ 80' ~ VS 4b
The left chimney.

SWINGER DIRECT ~ 30' ~ HVS 5a
Climb directly up the shallow hanging groove in the overhanging wall left of Orangutan. Reached direct.

KING OF THE SWINGERS ~ 200' ~ HVS 4c
A right to left traverse, starting at the right chimney and taking a line into the left chimney at about 15'. Belay in the left chimney. Move left across the steep wall and finish up a notch. Easy apart from the last section.

KIONE SLAB ~ 80' ~ Sev
The slabs on the left provide a rather different style of route. Start easily then finish more steeply up on the wet quartzite break.

Continuation routes on the upper tier are allowed for in the pitch lengths for the above routes.

The Primate crag is often used as an excellent introductory area for novices or kids.

From the end of the flat shelf descend and cross to the foot of an obvious wall at right angles to the main crag.

OCTOPUSES GARDEN ~ 120' ~ VS 4b
From the cave at the left end of the wall climb up to join a crack which rises from the roof of the cave, then follow this to the top.

On the cliff top 200' South of Octopuses Garden, there is a fisherman's track. Descend this path with care.

The first three routes lie to the right of the descent route.

STORKS MEGA LEG ~ 130' ~ Sev
Right of the descent route, climb the series of overhangs and steep walls to the top of a short wall. Traverse left for 20' then over the overhang and up to the top.

BLUE BAND ~ 90' ~ HVDiff
Right of Storks Mega Leg, climb to the big overhang and surmount this at the left hand end. Then climb straight to the top.

LITTLE MARGE ~ 70' ~ HVDiff
Right of blueband. Start just left of the arete and climb the short stiff roof and the wall above.

From the bottom of the descent route continue left past a black wall and then up and over a block to a tide swept large ledge. The following routes are accessible 1 hour after high tide. The first route starts on the extreme right of the main wall.

AROMATIC ~ 50' ~ Sev
Climb the wall for 20', then on to the arete. Continue to horizontal flakes then left a few feet and continue to the top of the pinnacle. Descend by the gully behind.

VIFFING ~ 140' ~ HVS 5a 20'
Right of the large V feature. Climb the wall to an obvious pointed overhang. Surmount either left or right, continue up until under large overhang. Traverse left 25' and finish as for Vectored V.

VECTORED V ~ 130' ~ VS
Climb direct to the top of the V until forced left 20' at a rotten yellow wall. From below the square vegetated block through the break to a large ledge and belay. Traverse 30' right to descend via the gully.

VIGNETTE ~ 130' ~ VS 4c
Left of Vectored V. Square break in the overhang. Climb direct through the break to a yellow wall at about 90'. Traverse right until below the vegetated break of Vectored V. Finish as for Vectored V.

VERITAS ~ 130' ~ HVS 5a
Left of Vignette, a wet green crack. Climb up the wall avoiding the wet, continue through a series of overhangs and short walls to the large black stained block. Traverse right for 20', belay as for the previous routes.

Continuing the traverse left (West) the foot of a long ramp is reached, up which an exit can be made to the top of the cliffs. It is possible without much difficulty to descend this ramp as a means of access, but the top of the ramp is hard to identify. Continue the traverse around the arete on the left of the ramp at a level dictated by the tide (low-level traverses are easy, but higher level traverses may require the use of a rope by less experienced parties). Another arete is then reached, overlooking an inlet with a fine crack in the back corner. A descending traverse can be made from the arete to reach ledges just above high water level, below the corner crack.

PENLITE CRACK ~ 90' ~ Hard Sev 4b
From the left end of the ledge climb up to reach the wide corner crack, then follow this to finish up the right wall.

EASY CRACK ~ 90' ~ V Diff
Takes the crack almost on the arete right of Penlite Crack, reached from the right.

PENLITE WALL ~ 90' ~ VS 4c ~ (T)
Using whatever rope tactics seem appropriate, cross the chasm below Penlite Crack to reach good ledges. Climb the obvious groove line up the middle of the wall to a belay just below the top, under an overhanging corner. The corner is climbed direct in an impressive finishing situation.


All text © Manx Fell & Rock Club and Mike Caine