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Rock Climbing in the Isle of Man
Maughold Head

 

The cliffs are located three and a half miles South East of Ramsey, just South of the lighthouse. Cars can be parked on a grassy patch about 200yds short of the lighthouse gates. From here continue to the top of the lighthouse steps, then go through the gate on the left and descend alongside the wall, and bear around the base of the lighthouse to the top of an arete. A path then winds down this arete, first on the North side, then on the South, to a rocky shore.

The climbs are described from left to right.

GOB NY STRONA

This is the small crag at the foot of the arete just to the North. It is a short, steep wall of good rock, which lies above large ledges at high tide level.

PHEW ~ 30' ~ V Diff
The thin crack at the right end of the wall.

ROUND THE BEND ~ 35' ~ Hard Sev
The arete at the extreme right end of the wall. Ascend trending right to finish up a steep crack.

HOPTUNAA ~ 30' ~ Diff
The obvious square cut chimney / groove in the centre of the wall.

YELLOW BUTTRESS ~ 30' ~ V Diff
The yellow ramp is climbed, moving left to right.

KILN FUNNEL ~ 30' ~ Sev
The black, inverted funnel-shaped crack with an overhang at half height.

CREASED ~ 30' ~ Hard Sev
The corner just left of Kiln Funnel.

MARINE CORNER ~ 30' ~ VS 5b
The awkward curving groove, with a "boulder problem" start.

EXIT ROUTE ~ 120' ~ Diff
This is the easy ridge to the left of the main wall. The upper section takes an obvious chimney crack to the right.

STACK BUTTRESS

The buttress almost at the foot of the descent arete can be identified by a prominent large mine entrance in its right flank. The arete itself gives a rather loose scramble at Moderate. The only recorded route (Shaft, VS) appears to have fallen down!

STACK BUTTRESS ~ 350'? ~ Diff
The arete of the buttress.

CLIFF OF THE GULLS

The cliff is situated in the next bay to the left of the descent arete. It is cut off at high tide.

PLUMBAGO ~ 185' ~ VS (T)
1/140' 4c From the back right corner of the bay climb steeply up broken looking rock to a ramp which leads to a square cut corner.
2/45 4c Climb up the corner (loose) and finish at the top of Stack Buttress.

EVASION ~ 180' ~ Sev (T)
This route climbs the slabby walls above the large area of overhanging rock at the back of the bay. Reach the slabs from the top of the ridge on the left.
1/45' Climb up the slabs to an overlap which is crossed to a stance on the right.
2/100' Continue up steeper rock to a crack on the left, then climb this to the final wall. 3/35' Finish up the very loose corner.

HALF BUTTRESS ~ 100' ~ V Diff
This is behind the small quartz banded stack attached to the buttress by a long narrow neck. Start to the right of the neck above the grassy lower half of the buttress, below steep black slabs.
1/60' A groove between the overhangs is climbed strenuously. Move left around the corner to a steeper groove, up this to a stance.
2/40' The blocks are split by a two inch wide crack which is climbed direct to the top.

CLETT BUTTRESS

Clett Buttress is best reached by walking along the top of the crags immediately under the boundary wall of the lighthouse property, and then scrambling steeply down grass, then rock to large ledges below a very impressive South-West facing vertical wall. A large slab leans against the seaward face of this buttress, forming a large cave.

TASK FORCE ~ 120' ~ E2 4c
Start at the lowest point of the wall on large ledges. Climb an obvious crack system to a ledge at 50', below an overhanging corner. Climb this corner direct with increasing difficulty on fragile rock to an awkward pullover onto a ledge. Continue easily up the corner, step left to the base of a ramp and up easily right to finish.

The next three routes start by descending onto large boulders and ledges inside the cave.

GUILLEMOT SHELF ~ 200' ~ V Diff
From the cave scramble through a chimney onto the seaward face of the slab. Climb the slab and grooves on the left, taking care with loose blocks.

PUFFIN ~ 140' ~ Hard V Diff
Climb easily up the back wall of the cave to an obvious ledge in the bottom of a chimney. Traverse through the chimney to the seaward face and belay. Then climb the cracks above direct to the top.

CORMORANT ~ 160' ~ Hard Sev 4a
Start as for Guillemot Shelf and climb up and right on the seaward facing slabs to a shelf on the right arete (belay). Climb the black corner above to a loose finish.

TWIN CLETTS

These are the two small sea stacks just off Clett Buttress. They can both be reached by scrambling at low tide. Access to both Cletts is from the gully between them, descent is by abseil.

BIG TWIN ~ 80' ~ Hard V Diff ~ (T)
Climb the bulging cracked wall on the seaward side of the largest Clett, starting from large ledges.

JUBILEE CLIMB ~ 90' ~ Sev ~ (T)
The slabby landward face of the largest Clett

LITTLE TWIN ~ 60' ~ Sev ~ (T) Climb the gully face of the smallest Clett. This is best reached by a complete circumnavigation just above sea level.

THE RAZORS EDGE ~ 50' ~ VS ~ (T)
Climb the smooth slabby face of the Little Twin via a thin crack, to reach the right arete, then finish up this.

CLIFF OF THE LAPWINGS

The more Southerly of the two obvious ribs at the back of the bay, called the Cliff of the Lapwings. The other, Kittiwake Rib, is a moderate scramble, which provides a useful means of descent. The steep North facing cliffs lying to the South of the bay are very loose and unclimbed.

HIGH HEELED SNEAKERS ~ 90' ~ Sev
Climb an obvious chimney / crack line past several overhangs.

THE FLEDGLING ~ 95' ~ Diff
Start at the foot of a fairly wide crack. Climb up easily left until level with the steep wall on the right below three overhangs on the left. Traverse right to a diagonal crack and slab. Up this to a platform and continue until the rock steepens, step left into an exposed groove followed by another groove on the left.

SHY TALK ~ 90' ~ HVS 5a About 20' left of High Heeled Sneakers. A problem start leads into a good crack. Finish via short V groove on the right wall.



All text © Manx Fell & Rock Club and Mike Caine