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Rock Climbing in the Isle of Man
Spanish Head

 

Spanish Head lies at the South West tip of the Island and provides one of the most impressive cliffs on the Island, which is well worth a visit. The easiest approach is as for the Chasms, but follow the well worn path along the edge of the moor until, after dipping down to a small stream, it rises again to the top of the crag. Scramble steeply down the grassy slope to the foot of the wall.

DONCELLA ~ 370' ~ VS
From the rock strewn platform below the crag scramble down and the up to a large white ledge, then down to a small black ledge near the left end of the crag. This fine route follows a crack line close to the arete.
1/70' 4b Follow the crack to a small black ledge.
2/70' 4b Move right and up a chimney, then left to the top of a pinnacle. Move left into a groove and climb this to a poor stance. 2a/40' 5a Climb the overhanging continuation of the crack direct to join the ordinary route.
3/40' 4b Move left to a steep crack and then follow this to a good stance.
4/20' 4b Traverse left (exposed) and up a steep wall to a good ledge.
5/100' 4b Climb right and up a steep groove to easier rock, then up and slightly right to a stance on the ridge.
6/70' 4b Move right and up on good rock.

TROUBADOUR 350' VS 4c
Start at the right end of the large white ledge at the foot of the crag, where a grey intrusion of rock forms a left facing gangway. the route climbs this past the overhang to good ledges, then makes a rising traverse to join Doncella at the start of the fifth pitch, and finishes up this route.

PICADOR ~ 360' ~ VS 4c
A good route, but very serious due to poor quality rock in places, especially at the top. Start at the right end of the rock strewn platform.
1/80' Climb the steep wall, trending right, then move left to a belay below the overhang.
2/60' Surmount the overhang on the right to reach a diagonal block crack and follow this left, then up right to a grass ledge and belay below a prominent overhang.
3/100' Climb to a point just right of the overhang, then up the edge of an earthy grass scoop until a move left is possible onto a steep wall. Climb up this to a grassy amphitheatre and belay on the right.
4/120' A fine but serious pitch. Walk to the left of the amphitheatre and climb a pedestal then continue up the pock marked wall moving right, until a delicate traverse left can be made to the ledge. Climb past a large ledge then make a rising traverse right along a loose wall to an overhung ledge. move left along this and climb through an exposed break to the top.

 


All text © Manx Fell & Rock Club and Mike Caine